Spring Break

Writing this during my last few hours in Brazil, listening to the pouring rain and booming thunder outside, thanking my lucky stars that I'm escaping this soggy beach town just in time!

These past two days have been fabulous, though. We began our Tuesday with an "early" wake-up around 10:30 AM and walked over to Copacabana Beach. I was sporting my new, revealing, very nerve-wracking Brazilian bathing suit, slightly anxious but excited to show off, when--because it's me--my bottoms came completely undone.

I stood there frozen completely mortified, and Jenn, after taking a few seconds to practically pee her pants laughing, rushed to my side to hide my white booty while I quickly retied my suit.

Minor setback, though, because I determinedly relaxed and settled onto the sand to soak up the sun while munching on an acai bowl (aka the definition of heaven).

While Copacabana was more picturesque and quainter than Ipanema Beach, the water was frankly disgusting. Tons of debri and trash and dead plants swirled in the crashing waves, and I desperately swam way out into the ocean attempting to escape the nastiness. This, of course, worked until I had to wade back in, and I got covered in all of the blech. But the crisp coolness of the water was too seductive while laying in the +90 degree weather, so I took the dirtiness in stride.

yay, sunshine!

After multiple hours of tanning (burning) and relaxing, us ladies headed back to our apartment to get ready for the sunset at Sugarloaf Mountain! Unfortunately, I was distracted by this ridiculous situation with a restaurant that double-charged me, so I was on the phone with Portuguese speakers, using google translate to attempt to communicate my problem and understand their responses like,

My bank, on the other hand, was like "lol ya sorry, not our prob," and I literally was shocked at their inability to help me in my one time of need.

But I got assurance from the manager that the refund would be coming by the next morning.

So, I jumped in the shower to rinse off all of the ick from Copa, ran to a Mickey D's for some nommy picnic food (and dealt with unbelievably awful customer service I may add), then hopped in a cab with the four others to enjoy Pao de Acucar, 

Stupidly, I didn't bring my student ID to the mountain so I paid twice as much as everybody else for a ticket and gave the quite strict ticket lady a *subtle* look--

Then breathed deeply and rode up the mountain in these cool glass gondolas. We reached the top right as the sun sank into the water, which allowed us to watch the lights in Rio lazily twinkle in the hazy dusk. It was breathtaking--dreamy and far-away and lovely.

We roamed around the mountain for about an hour, then we rushed back to Ipanema Beach for a Rio-style bar crawl. We dropped by three bars and one very empty club that was playing super sick music until a random Brazilian folk band came on stage with a banjo and what looked like a cheese grater to make some music.

Today, the five of us IHPers met up once again to take on Rio via bicycle. We rented some bikes, and I swore to them all that I was going to eat it and fall, but they refused to listen, ugh. We saw some STUNNING views, including a beautiful lake--

The mansion at which Snoop Dogg filmed his music video "Beautiful"--

And Jenn!

hi, Jenn!!!

While Sally, Michael, and Takudzwa visited Rio's botanical gardens, Jenn and I marched back to the double-charging restaurant, because, despite the promises, I had not yet been reimbursed. I barged into the classy eating establishment wearing only Spandex and a sweaty bathing suit top, like--

They quickly got me on the phone with their manager, and I got slightly aggressive, but appropriately threatening.

This time, she really promised it'd be taken care of, and sure enough, within a few hours, I had a *driver* drop off two hundred fifty reals and 55 cents at my doorstop. It felt slightly illicit...

But I rolled with it.

After biking, Jenn and I walked home to relax and shower while the other three continued their adventures. Jenny from the Block and I gorged ourselves again on the most delicious burger in the world along with frieds, guava ketchup (better than it sounds), and thick, creamy milkshakes. Sally met up with us, and we walked to the beach for a street market. Just as we were in the midst of shopping, the sky opened up and poured rain (surprisingly not helping to abate the smell of rotten fish) while giant lightning bolts flashed above us, illuminating the storm clouds.

We hurried home (after finishing scouring the market for souvenirs) and took refuge in our apartment. We are currently packing up and cleaning up (recalling my housekeeper days, throwback to 2013) and, of course, watching VEEP and listening to JBiebs. It's a pretty classic spring break.

Tomorrow, we head to one of the natural wonders of the world, Iguassu Falls! I couldn't be more excited!!!

Tata, Rio, you've been good to us! Thanks for the sun!

~~Red and Tan Aubs

Cheers to the Weekend

How do I even begin to encompass and describe the disparity between my past three days here in Sao Paulo? From informal housing sites, to a Top 40 night club, to a Portuguese SoulCycle, these 72 hours have allowed me to explore facets of the city that I'd never before seen.

Thursday seems like years ago, My friends and I have found that certain class days--specifically, the ones that involve nine hours of class and five different lectures, can bring us to the brink of sleep.

Lecturer: "As we have discussed in the past ten classes, colonialism began in the 15th century"

Seriously, even a history concentrator can only take so much repetition. So, in order to keep our minds sharp and our wandering thoughts corralled, a few of my friends and I have begun Sudoku races. We create Sudoku charts in our notebooks, copy down a few puzzles, and compete to finish first. Doing this actually really helps me pay attention, as I'm occupying my logical/number side of the brain (which is sorely underused tbh) while keeping my creative, imaginative side open for the issues and crises of Sao Paulo.

At least, that's what I tell myself.

We spent the latter half of Thursday at a fascinating apartment complex that is currently developing in Sao Paulo. It'd been a really long day, though, and I found the dimmed lights and comfy temperature of the presentation room quite lulling. At one point, we had to wake up our drowsing teacher. Slightly hilarious. But the presenter was really interesting, and I enjoyed inquiring about how his work relates to the recent history and economy of Sao Paulo. I so love being immersed in this city.

Later that afternoon/night, I went with a few friends to a bar in the a nearby neighborhood. We chatted loudly and cackled rambunctiously, and we spoke with abandon because nobody could understand us!!!!

Them: ^

Us: Good.

On Friday, I started the day with an hour-long trip outside the city center to an informal housing unit built up over the last few years. Basically, this community is constituted of families and individuals that would be homeless but have squatted on uninhabited government land and constructed homes from wood, cardboard, and other temporary materials. Many have improved and fortified their structures over the past few years and are now gaining formal status from the government.

Unlike individuals that I met in similar situations in India, the people in these locations expressed profound anger. They did not want to live in this location nor in these situations; they were desperate, and these informal homes were their last resort. "All we ask for," one inhabitant expressed, "is dignified living."

I found myself inspired, though, and awed by the fortitude, energy, and determination of these individuals. Despite working long hours during the week, they used the weekends to lay pipes and sewage systems; build up their own homes; and help others in the community construct. Even as we spoke, wrapping up our discussion, we watched two men laying the framework for a new home. I was astounded.

I was bothered too, though, by my reactions to this community. I felt hopeful, I felt myself being inspired instead of angered by the conditions, and I did not feel bad. This is completely different than my emotions in India. Upon seeing slums, I was so frustrated and almost physically sickened. Brazilian slums have not affected me in the same manner at all.

I'm scared by this change in my perception of subpar living conditions. Is it because I am so much happier in Brazil that I'm subconsciously donning rose-colored glasses in looking even at poverty and injustice? Is it that I'm getting desensitized to these issues? I'm nervous by the fickleness of my judgment and my inability to critically analyze the urban problems with which I'm being presented. 

I attempted to grapple with these problems but found myself swept up in the excitement of another fun weekend--guilt burgeoned in me with this swift and callous transition, but my long week required some mental and emotional distraction. So, after a fab haircut, Izzy joined my host family for dinner and was wowed by the unbelievable beef/fried dough Brazilian dish called "pastels." These little meat pockets were effing delicious, and I couldn't stop exclaiming my delight even with my mouth stuffed. I think my host mom loves me because if I'm not praising her cooking, I'm fawning over her granddaughter. Flattery is my specialty.

After dinner, a great roar of cheering swelled outside the window. I ran to listen to the second political expression since my arrival. Brazil's last president, Lula, was arrested to the delight and vindication of my numbers. Clapping, shouts of joy, and whistling filled the air.

me tryna absorb what is happening

People here are just unbelievably politically engaged. I think it's because of how young Brazil's democracy is--its current system of electoral, free government began in 1989. Think of how invested Americans were in every election and political happening back in the early 1800's.

Oh... only I'm familiar with the investment of Americans in politics in the early 1800's? 

But hey, maybe you'll reconsider my nerd status when you learn that I went out to a club last night!!! WOW!!! Aubrey went out!!!!

Even though the whole time I was thinking--

I more or less suppressed my social anxiety/nervousness/exhaustion and really ended up enjoying myself. Dancing with Izzy and Sally was the highlight of my night--I mean, besides our 3:00 AM McDonald's run, of course.

This morning, we woke up for what was one of the most fun and rockin' days I've had on this program. Sally, Izzy, Jenn, and I scoured an antiques market and nearby boutiques for some gifts and finds. I did so well with my shopping discoveries... So well in fact that I'm looking at my bank account like

That can't be right... oh my god, it is.

But omg, I have gotten to that weird, mature age at which I like buying gifts for other people more than I like shopping for myself??? Am I... an adult???

Spoiler alert, I bought three scoops of gelato and ate the entire thing too fast tonight and got a stomach ache, so no, I'm not nearly an adult.

After shopping, we walked to the Brazilian version of SoulCycle called Velocity. Velocity and SoulCycle are establishments at which you have an instructor guiding you through a stationary bike class with super awesome music and rave-y lights. I actually got embarrassingly into it and may not be a member of the SoulCycle cult.

We treated ourselves to an unreal Italian dinner of caprese, salmon, and gnocchi then got some gelato.

Jenn and I spent the entire night crying (aka sobbing) at military homecoming videos, marriage proposals, Google Chrome commercials, and the first episode of Fuller House. All of my friends have now gone out to party in Sao Paulo but I decided to stay behind and enjoy the night of having a room alllll to myself. Time to snuggle under my covers and enjoy my favorite kind of Saturday night.

Good night, dearies,

Aubrey