Showing posts with label mosque. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mosque. Show all posts

Friday, 5 February 2016

Finding My Happy

Travelling exposes and demands many things. It shows your misconceptions, your expectations, your internalized stereotypes, and a multitude of hidden, sometimes subconscious ideas that lurk in your mind. It demands of you energy, investment (physical, monetary, psychological and emotional), and so much immersion. Travelling gives, and travelling takes. The past two days gave me the chance to attempt to level this difficult balance and extract what I need to from this experience in order to “find my happy.”

 As I stated, this trip has been difficult on me. The abject poverty, the conditions of the humans and animals that I see, and the fact that I can’t do much to change it have all really drained me. What I didn’t realize til yesterday, though, was the fact that the city and urban environment themselves had also taken their toll.

Yesterday (which as I’m writing this was Wednesday), I finally figured out a way to communicate with my family reliably and regularly.

HALLELUJAH!!

It has legitimately changed the way I approach every situation and hardship; knowing that I can message my parents gives me the comfort and security I absolutely craved. So although I may be far in distance from my family, I can now contact them whenever I want. Take and give.

Because of my abstention from spending all class attempting to connect to WiFi, I actually paid attention!! (Kidding, I always pay attention.) But class rocked; the topics of history and Ahmedabad housing fascinated me. After lunch, the entire group mobbed to a stunning, five-century-old mosque called Sarkhej Ruza that was built on the outskirts of the city. Built of limestone and constructed with Hindi influence, it was unlike any of the mosques I’d seen in Istanbul. It looked and felt so much like the entrance to the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland, but since nobody in our group is even from the West Coast, I couldn’t share or revel in its similarity to the Forbidden Temple.

We were given some time at the beginning of our visit to wander the grounds on our own. I peeled off from the main group to check out a museum off to the side of the mosque that overlooked a gigantic field (which, in the wet season, is a lake). I marveled at its beauty, and just as promptly, burst into tears.

It was as if the shock of the city had kept my emotions and feelings and shock completely pent up; my consistent state of being overwhelmed hadn’t allowed me to express my homesickness and sadness and frustration. It was super therapeutic. I cried a little bit, then rejoined the group feeling much more refreshed.

I think this confirmed for me a notion that I’d discussed with one of my best friends back at school. There are some people that thrive on the energy and bustle of a crowded city; I, on the other hand, crave and need open space, nature, an expanse of water and land. I find that even in Boston and New York, I get claustrophobic; I thrive in the forests of Maine, and on the beaches of the Mediterranean, and even in the suburbs of Southern California, which, I have come to realize, treasure their pieces of “wild” land. For those of you who don’t know, I grew up with a canyon nature preserve as a backyard, but it wasn’t until going to school in Cambridge (in which I feel most comfortable on the banks of the Charles River) that I realized how much I internalized and fed off of this peace and tranquility of my mini “wilderness.” So, I may be exhausted and overwhelmed by the pollution and buzz and crowding of Ahmedabad (and almost definitely will be by Sao Paulo as well), but I now know that I one hundred percent need to live in a place that prizes and preserves its nature. Take, give.

Today, I finally found a zoo that I didn’t like—an occasion which I never believed would come about. A few of us went to Konkaria Lake for the day, a man-made reservoir from the 15th century that is now encircled by little restaurants, an amusement park, gardens, and a zoo. Honestly and frankly, I don’t know what I expected a zoo to be like in a city that can’t even house a million people in its population and keeps them in shacks on the street, but I was not expecting what I saw. Small cages for panthers and tigers that let in little light; concrete enclosures with no trees or grass or even dirt; and, the worst of all, a lone elephant in a gated area, who was incessantly shaking its head, which is apparently a sign of boredom and loneliness. God, I’m about to cry all over again writing this down.

I promise that I’ve been moved by the slums and by the conditions of the poor children I see in Ahmedabad, but for some reason the sight of a single elephant (one of the most social creatures on this planet) alone and feeling its loneliness broke me. Maybe it’s because back home, going to the San Diego Zoo with my dad and watching the gigantic elephant herds roam around their huge enclosures together is one of my favorite traditions. Maybe because I empathized with an animal separated from its family, in a place it doesn’t understand. Maybe I’m just an emotional wreck. But it reaffirmed my dedication to improving the well-being of every person and animal I come across, and it made me want to donate to an animal charity ASAP. Lots of take, and only a little give for this one.

After the lake, all four of us were craving an American dish—something that would taste like home. So… We went to Domino’s!

We experienced something absolutely hilarious, though. When we walked in to the Dominos around the corner from the lake, we found a few other classmates already sitting and eating their pizza!!!! With no communication between our two groups, we’d all been feeling like a good ol’ slice of American-brand pizza. It was really funny, and made me feel less alone in that I knew I wasn’t the only homesick person on this trip.

After pizza, Sally and I flexed our bargaining muscles a few times for rickshaws and a flower market, getting our drivers down from 50 rupees (75 cents) to 30 rupees and 40 rupees each way. My mom would be proud. However, I think our bargaining pissed off our first driver, as he dropped us off at a weird location five minutes from where we actually told him to take us, and while walking through the crowded street, we both got “bumped” by a motorcycle. This place is freaking insane.

At the flower market, we bought two small bouquets for our host mom after some haggling. They’re super pretty, but we got slightly worried that they might symbolize like funeral or death or something in Indian culture. I think we’re good, though.

We’re now back at our homestay, and while Sally goes shopping tonight, I think I’ll be hanging around the house doing homework, reading, and watching more Discovery Channel. I have to rest up, because tomorrow… We fly to Delhi, and on Saturday, we’re visiting the Taj Mahal!!!! WAHOO! I am so excited to see the most beautiful monument of love ever built (a sultan built this as a mausoleum for his wife). Meanwhile, I can’t even get a text back from a boy… (Kidding.) (Kinda.)

I’m super stoked for the adventure ahead of me, and I think that getting out of Ahmedabad for a few days will refresh me a lot.

I’m continuing to carve out my happy places and find my way in this dizzying, bright, overwhelming city.

Signing off,
Philosophical Aubs

Wednesday, 27 January 2016

Exploring Ahmedabad

An introduction to the city of Ahmedabad, the opportunity to interact with locals, and more delicious meals comprised this wonderful day and the official beginning of my month in India.

All of us had pretty fitful sleep last night, due to the jetlag and the weird side effects of our anti-malarial pills that we are taking. Apparently, these drugs cause "vivid dreams," so we all woke up intermittently throughout the night with some confusion as to what was actually real. 

Caitlin, did you actually try to kill me last night???

I ended up shuffling out of bed around 6 AM for a quick workout and another chance to watch the sunrise. I tried multiple times to talk with my family on the phone through WiFi-enabled Viber, but it was legit painful. Apparently my WiFi is terrible, so while I'm talking, my fam is just like--


I quickly and exasperatedly gave up.

After a quick shower in which I couldn't open my mouth (aka none of this for the next month--)


Because of the potential of contracting typhoid through the ingestion of the water, we went downstairs for another traditional Indian breakfast. We then split into small groups in order to meet with our tour guides and begin our walk through the Old City of Ahmedabad. We clambered into rickshaws, which are about the size of golf carts and absolutely flood the streets, and began our journey to the East Bank of the river.

our first rickshaw ride!

Our guide Girish was basically an expert on the art and architecture of Ahmedabad and India in general, so we got a really cool introduction to the mosques and temples in the city. My group was intently listening to Girish's explanations about Ahmed Shah's Mosque, when all of a sudden, a man riding an elephant legit just strolled on by!!!!

literally all of us

We breathlessly inquired whether or not that was a normal occurrence; Girish disinterestedly answered, "eh, it's not permitted, but it happens."

In the US, we might have the same sort of nonchalance about somebody talking on the phone while driving, or jaywalking--but this was an elephant in the middle of the street!!! So crazy.

Another thing I've learned on the streets of India--there are no rules. At all. Drivers swerve on any side of the street that seems free, and it seems like collisions are narrowly avoided. It's extremely unsettling, and we were all kind of gripping each other and whispering little prayers begging for safety.

The Indians with whom I've interacted have been unbelievably kind and open. We wave at each other through the open rickshaws (there are no windows or doors), and we smile at each other on the street. It's so friendly and inclusive and communal--I love it!

We also witnessed a wedding procession passing through the streets, which was so fun. Musicians were beating drums, the women and men danced and twirled, and cars and buses halted to allow the group to walk to the other sidewalk. SO FUN!!!! I couldn't help but tap my feet to the infectious beat.

Other stories from the day: one of my fellow IHPers commented that I looked like a "Persian princess" with my scarf covering my head, so I of course fainted from joy.

but like, please keep going
I also attempted to pet all of the dogs around me, but my friends had to yell at me not to, basically like I was a dog.

"Aubrey, NO!!!!"

I reluctantly obeyed, but I know that I'll succumb to temptation quite soon.

ANYWAYS. I absolutely loved the mosques and temples we visited. 

a rooftop view of Ahmedabad plus me!

They were so ornate and intricate, I was stunned. 




The Hindu temple especially reminded me of the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland!!!

don't tell me you don't see it

We ate lunch at a tall, revolving restaurant, so we saw the entire city of Ahmedabad over the full hour and a half of lunch and a full revolution. 

After lunch we all withdrew some rupees to spend on shopping and on food, and we also bought "burner phones" so that we can contact our host families using local numbers. I legit bought a nice, albeit simple phone, for 1,650 rupees--or about $25.00.

how cheap!?!?!

Because it's a secondary phone with an international number that I might toss out after the trip, I obviously feel like an undercover spy on clandestine business.


So once again, I am utterly exhausted, but I think I did a much better job of including pictures and ~fun things~. My WiFi is really crappy, so it usually takes me about two times as long to write these posts as it should, which means I get pretty lazy by the end (sorry, people). I hope you're still enjoying reading these as much as I enjoy writing them!! And I promise to attempt to shed the jet lag so that I can write more over the next few weeks. 

Much love,
Aubs


Tuesday, 23 June 2015

Strays, Sultans, and Scarves on My Head: Days 3 and 4

I resumed my journey through Istanbul Sunday morning at 6 AM. We woke up at the break of dawn in order to make it to the Hagia Sophia Mosque right at opening. My best friend from back home, who's travelled through Istanbul, told me that nothing in the world compares to standing under the golden domes before the loud rush of tourists. And boy, was she right.

But first--I had to make a friend.


HEY THERE, BUD.

Hundreds of stray cats and dogs roam the streets of Istanbul. They're often very friendly and well-fed, as bowls of dry pet food and of water line the corners of the streets. It's so cute--it's like the city of Istanbul has its own pets (: But back to the mosque:

WOAH.

All alone... Humbling experience

Beautiful, right? The Hagia Sophia used to be a church in the Byzantine time but was converted into a mosque in the Ottoman period. I enjoyed sitting on the marble steps soaking in the history and the two religions that have graced these halls.

Next up--the Basilica Cistern. This underground water source provided the fresh water for dozens of wells around the city. It was a cavern right out of Indiana Jones, and it was probably my favorite place in Istanbul!

Catfish swimming around the columns!

Me and the columns! Woo!

Medusa statue on which a column rested. The Medusa head was purposely turned sideways as a symbol of Christianity's victory and quashing of the pagan Roman religion. Cool!

After the Cistern was a trip to a Turkish bath. No pictures of that, since it was a spa, but wow--it was like being transported back in time! My two friends are I were the only non-Turks in the bath, and there were only, like, three other girls under the age of 50 in the bath. It was so relaxing and so exotic. I adored the soothing massages and the steaming water to loosen my tense muscles. Highly recommend this experience to all! There was also something beautiful about this calm and quiet gathering of women. Most women walk around Turkey covered at least in headscarves and often with hijabs. It must be so freeing to release one's body from the folds of fabric in the warm, affectionate, and comfortable atmosphere of the bath. 

We made our way back to our hostel using public transportation--boy, what an experience. I stood on a crowded subway and felt people pressing in on all sides of me. Then--I kid you not--I felt somebody CUPPING my BUTT. 

Oh HELLLLLLL NO! 

I turned around in shock and saw this pathetic middle-aged man hastily pulling his hand away. I smacked him and said "Don't you DARE," then gave him my most withering look of disgust. He tried to look innocent, but he probably wasn't used to women calling him out--they don't have much of that firey Creole spice in Turkey. And the worst part? His 7 year old daughter was hanging onto his waist the whole time!!! I was revolted. How can a father of a young daughter grope a teenage woman in front of her?!!! As you might guess--not my most favorite of male-female interactions I've encountered thus far. But I think I taught this guy not to mess.

Anyways, that night, my friends and I explored the suburbs of our hostel with a few Scottish girls we met. We find a nice pizza place that took FOREVER in getting our food. We had terrible service and were barely paid attention to. Probably because the waiter's salary don't depend even the slightest on tips. So there's one benefit to the American custom--waiters and waitresses have smiles on their faces!

We went to sleep, then woke up the next morning after some sleeping in. We decided to explore some of the lesser known mosques away from the touristy parts of the city, and we found some absolute gems, my favorite being the Rustem Pasha Mosque.

Stunning

The walls are blue and white, meant to represent the reach of the heavens. The carpets were red to represent the earth. I felt close to the same peace and calm in this church that I'd experienced in Christ's jail. I really did love this mosque! 

We then visited Suleymayine Mosque, which is said to rival the Blue Mosque.



I loved the grandeur of this mosque. It was heavenly. My friend and I, though, both felt a similar severe disillusionment when we saw the grand emptiness of the main mosque as the men prayed--and a woman in a back cell wearing full hijab praying even further from the main altar than the tourists were. It left our stomachs in knots for reasons we later articulated. If nothing else, this culture of a combined religion and state inspired incredible conversations about culture, religion, sexism, human rights, and God with the other girls I was with.

From the mosques, we visited the best silversmith in the world as well as a man whose family has melted gold into jewelry for the last few centuries.

Standing in front of the silversmith shop

What a guy!

Melting the gold!

From these two shops, we headed back to the hostel to change into some nice slothes and walk to the Harvard Networking Night in Istanbul. The view was stunning--

artsyyyy


--and the drinks were flowing. At least, until the Istanbul Club president left--then the bills came out to all of the recent graduates and alumni. LOL. Classic Harvard, I've gotta say. One of the incredible alumni, whom my friend and I had been talking to for about a half hour, covered our frappuccinos, so we were pretty stoked. We stopped at a beautiful chocolate place where we continued to discuss our opinions and beliefs. By the time we returned to our hostel, it was about 11 PM. We headed to the airport shuttle, which dropped us off at our airport around 1 in the morning. Since we had to check in for our flight around 4... We decided to sleep in the airport!! Felt just like the movie The Terminal.

Hehehe. 

We made it to a Starbucks on the top floor and flopped out on the couches. Our dear friend Ahmed watched out for us as he cleaned the Starbucks area. We slept for about 2 hours then sat there in slightly delusional exhaustion. We made it onto our plane and crashed for the hours it took to get back to Israel. After a few hours, I arrived back at my home. It was so exciting to walk up the steps and open the door. I started gushing right away to my host mother, who said the whole family had missed me--probably not as much as I missed them!! And when I finally walked into my room--I started crying!!! It was bittersweet, I think. Slightly bitter, because all I wanted to do was speak with my mom and dad. But incredibly sweet, because I felt like I was home. After three weeks here, this house on Nordau Street has become my home. How lucky am I?!

If you can believe it--my four day trip cost me less than $200 including my hostel and souvenirs. The flight was $167. It's amazing how cheap this vacation was! I plan on spending the next day and a half catching up on sleep--and on the show The Americans! I love you all!

Happy to be Home,
Aubrey Noelle








Saturday, 20 June 2015

How Many Words Are A Thousand Pictures Worth?--Day 2

All pictures with little descriptions tonight, because it's impossible to use simple words to articulate the beauty of this city!

Trying to scout out a good photo place near Topkapi Palace, but candid photos turn out best anyway!

Our first view of Topkapi Palace!

The Council of Ministers. They met in this building til the 19th century!

Imperial Hall, where the women of the court (including the sultan's favorite concubines) would gather and hold company. 

When the site for Byzantium (aka modern day Istanbul) was being chosen, the seeking men were told by an oracle to look for the land "across from the land of the blind." Well, when they came across this beautiful harbor with this view, they realized that the tiny little town across the harbor HAD to be for the blind--not that they'd ever actually verify!

Lunch with a view!

Because when you see a tree with a hole in it, what else are you gonna do?

You can see the Blue Mosque in the background!

Split capture photo: me and the ceilings of the Blue Mosque. It might sound strange, but I think the mosque looks better in pictures than in person!

No shoes allowed in the mosque. Off they go--good thing I got them halfway shined yesterday! (;

A kind and welcoming sign in the mosque. We sat in the Islam Information Center for about 20 minutes learning the basics. 

Onto the ferry for a cruise through the Bosphorous Strait!

Going around sunset was a good idea!

Turkish baklava--yum!

The name of this bakery/restaurant is NOLA Istanbul. I know that in Tel Aviv, there is a NOLA bakery that takes its inspiration from New Orleans pastries! I loved seeing the NOLA bakery here, but it definitely made me a little homesick for some pralines! (Hint: NOLA=New Orleans LouisianA)

And finally--you can drop me in any city in any country around the globe, and I will ALWAYS find the dog!!!

Not Pictured:
Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Spice Bazaar, where I actually successfully haggled for some souvenirs and gifts!
Numerous backstreets that showed off the residential life and hidden, non-touristy parts of Istanbul
And, the Hagia Sophia--because we wake up at 6 AM tomorrow to ensure we are the first ones there at opening!

Excited beyond belief--but definitely missing home,
Bittersweet Aubrey