Goin' to the Golan

Today was a day of adventure. A few interns and I hired a car and driver then explored Golan and Golan Heights. The Golan Heights is where the Syrian, Lebanese, and Israeli borders all meet. It was part of Syria until the 1970's when Israel took control of the area. If you feel like "Golan" faintly ring a bell, it might be because the US State Department issued a warning against travelling to the region... Oopsies. I mean, I only saw like 10 or so tanks, and there was only one warning against accidentally entering a "firing/landmine" zone on our hike. But hey--all part of the adventure!

We left Tel Aviv at 7 AM in a Mercedes van with our driver Joy.

View from the backseat, wahoo

The van stalled about five minutes into our drive, which didn't seem like a great sign...

The expression on our face as the car stopped in the middle of an intersection

After that, though, the trip up north was uneventful. As we drove up along the Mediterranean, the views reminded me a lot of San Clemente. Sandy brush, green scrub, and beautiful beaches. THen, as we got closer to Golan, the scenery was a ton like home--yay Anaheim Hills! One of my friends actually told me that when the American military is training, the soldiers go to California because of the similarity in climate and environment. So it was almost like being back--kinda. Israel almost feels more familiar and comfortable than Boston sometimes...

Anyways--pictures!

Our first stop was Nimrod fortress, a medieval stronghold from the 13th century.

There's the front part!

Me bein' my adventurous self

Crazy-intricate Arabic engravings that honor the Baybar Sultans (builders of the fortress). At the top-middle of the picture is a lion engraving, as the lion was the symbol of the Sultans.

Beautiful, right?

Wandering through the fortress

Cool winding staircase

Octagonal Tower, or as my pamphlet says, the "particularly attractive" tower

So, we knew that from our vantage point we could see Lebanon and Syria... But we couldn't quite tell where exactly they were! So, if you look at the next few pictures, you'll see Lebanon and Syria in at least one!

From Nimrod we drove to the Gamla Nature Reserve and hiked for an hour. Now this reminds me a TON of Anaheim Hills! Dry--but beautiful. I seriously felt right at home (:

The trail

Beautiful in a different way--but still beautiful!

A waterfall, oooo! 

Yay, me

Lovin' it

After hours of hiking and sweating, we were more than ready to relax in an air-conditioned winery. First stop: Golan Heights Winery!

Fancy schmancy

Some sample grapes to try!

The wine store

We took a tour around the facilities to see how they fermented and bottled the wine.

Oak barrels that give the wine a "heavy" taste

Red on the left, white on the right

They even let us keep the glasses, so generous

Fun fact: white wine is fermented at cooler temperatures than red wine is

A wine fountain, instead of a soda fountain!

Touring Golan Heights Winery was fantastic. It was established in the 1970's and has won numerous worldwide awards. It felt very professional and established. Very unlike the next winery we went to... Assaf Winery. Assaf was started only three years ago and is still run by a single family. It was quaint, rustic, and gorgeous. We were the only six people there and got special attention!

Assaf Winery

My favorite part of the winery of course

Mmmm.

Our tapas and dips!

The sampled wine and our lovely taste leader!

We finished up at Assaf around 4:30 and drove on back to Tel Aviv. We all PASSED OUT on our way back, I caught my bus back to Raanana right on time to eat with my host family for dinner. It was Ronnie's birthday (my host "dad") so we had a nice little celebration. Tomorrow, I visit Jerusalem again--and I can't wait! If it's half as incredible as today was, it will be an awesome day.

Signing off,

AubStod

Because It's Monday

What is something you desperately require if you're writing a research paper that requires about a hundred online sources, fifteen word documents, and some bumpin' music to crank out the pages to?

That's right. A computer.

Well, I'm currently in a fight with my computer. I don't know if she/he is having a tantrum or if I mortally offended him/her, but we are not on good terms.

Here's just a list of what has had to be replaced in the two years since I've had my laptop:
- The battery
- The hard drive
- The charger

Here's what is currently broken on my computer:
- The left speaker (nice)
- The touchpad
- All of my USB ports (aka I can't plug in a mouse and use that anymore)

Now listen. My dad taught me how to use an item until it literally falls apart. He didn't feel like buying a Bluetooth for his phone, so he decided to glue velcro on the back of it and stick it onto another velcro strip that he glued to his sun visor. He drove his ratty old minivan until it stalled and died in the middle of an intersection. I KNOW how to make something last until the end.

It's the end.

My laptop is dying.

And at first, I was dealing with it.

Especially not in front of my coworkers who already think I'm a crazy cat lady. 

But then, after exiting out of all of the tabs I'd opened, or trying for an hour to fix my USB ports so I can plug in my stupid retro mouse, it started.

Or maybe this is more accurate...

Okay I'll try to calm down. *cries*

YES I MADE MYSELF A GIF OKAY, DON'T JUDGE. But really, I was able to control myself, but JEEZ, can't a girl get a working laptop??!!! He/she is behaving her/himself for the moment, but I know that there will be a dramatic turn in mood in the next like three seconds. These are the times I wish I could just throw my hands in the air, hand my laptop to my dad (who'd ideally be in the next room over), and go hang out with my dogs until he miraculously fixes it or admits defeat and buys me a new one. Instead, I'm in a foreign country and I just have to try my hardest to use my mouse as little as possible. I've gotten really good at keyboard shortcuts. (endorse me for that on LinkedIn, please).

But my day got infinitely better once I got back home. We had another beach dinner and arrived on the sand about an hour before sunset. It was stunning.

Wow

That's Orit, the youngest daughter, standing on the edge of the water! We watched the sun sink below the horizon--and I got some pictures taken of myself, of course.

Right as the sun is kissing the water

The last reflections

I watched with serenity as the sun left Israel to go warm the days and shoulders of my family and friends back in the US. Time difference is something I'll never get used to--especially a 10-hour gap from my loved ones. It's really difficult not being able to even call my parents or sisters when something is on my mind or I have a question. Going away to the East Coast definitely made me realize that physical proximity is a luxury, but now I'm realizing that immediate access to the voices and words and ears of my family are a gift as well. I'll never take them for granted again.

I'm back home now, coaxing my laptop's happy spell to last through this post. I have work tomorrow, but I'll be spending the weekend exploring Israel. Very excited!

Enjoy the sun, my friends,

Aubs

The Real Israel

One of the first questions I'm asked by Israelis upon our first meeting is, "Is Israel what you expected it to be?"

My initial reaction is just to go--

But I know that the inquirers deserve a legitimate answer. So many misconceptions fly around about Israel, and there's undoubtedly a lot of hatred aimed at the inhabitants, so Israelis are eager to find out whether or not the country and land they're so proud of have wiped away any negative assumptions. Here are some of the fallacies that my experiences have disproved.

Belief: Israel is a barren desert.

Reality: Israel is kind of an oasis. Sure, if you go far enough inland, you'll encounter reddish-brown mountains reminiscent of Arizona, or New Mexico, with little-to-no visible wildlife beyond some brush. But the city I live in (Raanana), the city I work in (Herzliya), and Tel Aviv are all overflowing with greenery and critters. Raanana is greener, in fact, than Southern California. There are many flowers, tons of chirping birds, and palm trees. Herzliya is a beach community with ivy climbing up the walls of the buildings. Tel Aviv rests right on the Mediterranean and is filled with little emerald parks and tons of dogs (happy Aubs).

Belief: Everybody in Israel is a religious Jew.

Reality: Israel is a little bit more diverse than that. To be sure, you'll see many more kippahs (or yamakas) on men out and about than you ever would in SoCal or Cambridge, but only about 30% of Israelis are practicing Jews. There are also many Arab Muslims inhabiting Israel (and quite a bit of tension exists between the two groups), and non-practicing Jews. It's interesting; many Jewish Israelis identify not with the Jewish religion, but with the Jewish ethnicity and the Jewish culture. Some of these Jews could not begin to tell you about the history of the Torah, but they are proud of their ancestors and the strength of their people. 

Belief: Israel is dangerous.

Reality: Most of Israel is actually very, very safe. Not just from rockets--which it is!--but from ordinary crime as well. I actually feel much safer walking down a dark street in Raanana than I do in Cambridge. A sense of camaraderie and community pervades the cities and streets. I think that's what happens when it feels like the whole world--or at least, your immediate world--is ganged up against you. You band together. You kind of have to.

Other things I've noticed:

- Almost everybody speaks English--except for the bus drivers, cuz that'd just be way too easy. But seriously, if you speak to five random people on the street, at least four of them would answer you coherently. Of course, I feel like an absolute idiot, considering I can barely speak one language (I've had to spell check, like, 15 different words in this entry alone). I do get this perverted sense of pride when somebody speaks Hebrew to me initially. Like, oooo, they think I'm Israeli, go me! Of course this pride is shattered the second I have to go "errr ummm inglit???" And then they look a little bit exasperated and disgusted and my ego deflates a tiny bit.

- People really like America. Whether my perceptions are slightly skewed because of the superstar quality of me coming from California, or my attendance at one of the top universities in the world, I'm not sure; but it really does seem that people are fond of the USA. Thank God for that, because I would feel very uncomfortable living in a country that had animosity, or even apathy, towards the US. In Egypt, for example, you're better off just telling people you're from Canada. I don't know if I could convincingly tell someone I come from "America's top hat." (Kidding.... A little bit.) But really, if anybody had walked into my bedroom on July 3rd at 11:59, this is what it would have looked like.

WOOOO

- Tel Aviv feels like an American or European city. It isn't "quintessentially Middle Eastern"--honestly, I don't really know what that'd look like, but I feel very comfortable in the city in a way I didn't feel comfortable in Istanbul. 

- Israelis are a very hands-on, confrontational, and at times pushy people. They will demand what they believe they deserve. If you're dozing or blanking out, they will cut you in line. And they refuse to put up with any bullsh*t. For example, when the think tank I work for reserved a conference room, and students from the college were working in the space, they profusely and very stubbornly refused to leave. Let me clarify--an adult researcher for an international think tank on counter-terrorism had to fight with some college students to leave a room that had been reserved. They insisted that it was "their school" and they had the right to sit there.

The blatant disrespect of authority had me like

If anybody even semi-important looking walked into a room I was in at Harvard--even a freaking bathroom--and told me they had it reserved, I'd be like

OMG I'm so sorry, I'll leave right now, would you like some snacks, some orange juice, can I pull out that seat for you?

It's a very different, very authoritative culture. Perhaps when you have multiple nations and millions of people telling you that the land you live on doesn't actually belong to you, or the religion you practice garners enough hatred for millions to actively seek your death,  you start to feel (or at least act) entitled to a few things--a conference room being one.

If you have any more questions about Israel, I'd be happy to answer them! Just leave a comment below, and I'll answer to the best of my abilities!

Much love,

Practically Israeli Aubrey

Somewhere Beyond the Sea

The title might be slightly misleading, since I don't have any lover beyond the sea standing on golden sand--except, maybe, America, who probably misses me bunches as she prepares for the Fourth, which is my second favorite holiday behind Thanksgiving. ANYWAYS, this song just felt like the soundtrack to my day, as I explored the seaside of Tel Aviv and waded in the Mediterranean.

It started with a stroll through the Tel Aviv "shuk," or the flea market.

It was a much quieter, calmer version of the Turkish Grand Bazaar and actually reminded me a lot of Downtown LA. They had some pretty awesome shops--

But I didn't actually buy anything. It was enough to just enjoy the sights and sounds--and the numerous rude people who stopped in the crowded walkway to check a text or just take a rest. I basically sprint when I walk, and these obstructions had me like

 But finally, I got to the beach and was able to relax. Cue Bobby Darin and Kevin Spacey!

So stunning.

The casual siren on the beach in case we get bombed

DOGS ON THE BEACH, IT IS A DREAM COME TRUE.

I continued to walk on the shore towards Old Jaffa, which is apparently the oldest seaport in the world and one of the oldest Christian settlements in the world as well. I walked along the shore to that beautiful tannish city you can see in the background--

PSA: wear shoes with a grip--I slipped way too many times on these bricks!

Jaffa is unbelievably stunning. It is built with this smooth tan brick and has numerous gardens and sculptures scattered throughout the small city. It looks over the Mediterranean and Tel Aviv with stunning views.

Tel Aviv from the Old City of Jaffa

One of the oldest Christian churches in Israel and possibly the world, St. Peter's church is unique, because unlike most churches, which are built towards the east, St. Peter's is built towards the west overlooking the Mediterranean towards Rome, where Peter is considered the first pope.

St. Peter's Church

A panorama of the City Square

Before Israelites inhabited Jaffa, it was ruled by the Canaanites, so remnants of old mythology remain. One of these old remnants is the Zodiac Fountain, which features the twelve zodiac signs. Apparently, if you make a wish, it will come true immediately--so of course, I had to make a wish!

Another view of the water and city!

 The famous Clocktower Square in Jaffa

I spent about an hour on the beach and in the water relaxing after my hard day of sightseeing. As I stood on a sidewalk corner, waiting for the green light, I heard a hearty--and abysmally accented--"Shalom!" I looked over to see a nice looking, very American guy so I smiled and responded. We got to chatting, and it turned out he was just finishing up his Birthright trip. Many college-aged American Jews will come to Israel for an all-expenses paid trip to see the state of their ancestors. He assumed I was one of these vacationers as well, and was shocked--and pretty impressed--to find out I wasn't Jewish. (lol). Anyways, I told him what I was doing and where I was going to school, and he literally started rattling off names of people he knows that go to Harvard--and I knew so many of them! The networking quality of my university will never cease to amaze me. Literally, I'm halfway across the world, and randomly I meet someone who can list some of my closest friends at school. UNBELIEVABLE.

I headed back home and had to transfer buses a short ways from my final destination. I sat for about ten minutes, waiting for the 29 bus to pick me up. I watched the bus come.... And I watched it drive right past me.

Yeah, no, it's totally fine, I'll just walk.

I schlepped back to the house and collapsed into bed. We had a lovely dinner to start off our Shabbat, and I plan on going to sleep right.. about.. now. It's been a wonderful, but exhausting day, and I'm ready to get some rest!!

Toodles,

No More Sailin' Aubs

Bye Bye, Ariella ):

So sad. Ariella, one of the host family's daughters who is closest in age to me, just left for her summer volunteering trip to Ethiopia. She will be coming back to Israel two days after I leave for Boston, so we won't see each other again this summer. Having to say goodbye to one of the family members I've come to love over the last few weeks gave me a little taste of what it will be like to leave for good in two months.

Bye bye Rel ):

Wow. This summer is just flying by. It makes me feel guilty about wasting even a single moment while I am here! Today, though, I decided to give myself a break. I laid out in the sun to catch some rays and get my summer tan then went to the nearby country club to dip into the pool with Atara and Michal (two other daughters). It's interesting being in such a modest country. I wouldn't say that my two-piece bikini was abnormal in the setting... but I wasn't in the majority. Most teens were wearing one pieces of shirts and shorts. At first I felt a little uncomfortable baring so much skin...

Hello, yes, this is my stomach, hi

Then I stopped caring and was like yeah whatever, I'm getting my color on. But it was DEFINITELY a different experience from feeling like the more conservative beach-goer.

Also, I had a pretty hilarious Aubrey moment yesterday. The fam decided to eat some dessert after a delicious homemade dinner, and we got out the Ben and Jerry cartons that had been purchased the day before. I shuffled through the bowls in the cabinets to grab one I felt was suitable. The one I grabbed seemed a tiny bit too large, but I mean, you might as well err on the side of caution for an ice cream bowl. I turn around to see Ariella grabbed everybody some plastic bowls--THAT WERE THE SIZE OF THIMBLES. It was pretty hysterical because typical me, getting an ice cream bowl that is literally 15 times bigger than everyone else's.

Not even sorry.

Over the past two days, the host family and I have been talking a lot about some pretty heavy issues--religion, terrorism, politics, and such. It's pretty exciting for two reasons. First of all, I get to hear different opinions and different points of view. It's especially awesome when I realize that our views don't even diverge that much on certain topics. We believe in a God of love, One that should bring joy to believers; we have similar thoughts on rights and humanity; and we agree on issues of identity. It's pretty fascinating to be in a place thousands of miles away from home and still feel understood. It's also exciting to discuss these things, because we all feel comfortable talking about such touchy subjects. I'm part of the fam, woooo! You can barely tell I'm not actually a Jewish Israeli.

If I stay quiet, they won't even tell I'm different.

Then all of a sudden one of the girls will say something in Hebrew or the sushi order is wrong and one of the girls has to call and complain and everybody bursts into laughter over a Hebrew phrase and I'm like

But overall--I feel like I'm fitting in.

I had a lot of plans for the upcoming weekend, but they all fell through--classic. I will probably be taking a day-trip into Tel Aviv tomorrow to explore the city and the beautiful, world-renowned beaches. The lack of public transportation on Friday nights and Saturdays really limits the ability to take short two-day trips over the weekend! However, it will be nice to spend another Shabbat with the family (: 

Love,

Sun-Drained Aubs