The Beach Cures All

Okay, I have sufficiently recovered my peace of mind enough to record the events of yesterday and today. I'm just as sane as I normally am, which is to say, not very.

SO after work yesterday, Kajsa and I took the bus to Tel Aviv to eat some acai bowls and sit on the shore. If I squinted just a little and sort of held my breath and didn't listen to the incomprehensible conversations going on around me, I could pretend I was home in Laguna Hills chilling at Thousand Steps Beach! We'd only planned on staying a few hours, but time slipped away as we chatted and watched the sun set.

We had two interrupters.

First, some crazy dude literally slid on the sand in between me and Kajsa like this--

And Kajsa and I were like--

This random guy was trying to make weird conversation, so I kindly asked if he'd throw away my empty acai bowl for me. His attitude completely darkened, and he started cussing me and Kajsa out, calling us "douchebags" (what?) and telling us to shut up.

So of course I'd just say random words so he wouldn't think I was obeying his order. It was like fighting with a 2-year-old with an excessively colorful vocabulary.

But our next visitor was way more fun. Davit, the middle-aged Israeli man, basically loved me.

Real quotes from Davit:

"You have a lovely skin color. Very dark."

"You just have to make sure you smile when it's dark out, it could be hard to see you."

"Do you play volleyball? I can tell your hands handle balls well."

"Boys are stupid. You need to wait for the right boy. Not an Israeli boy."

"You have a lot of spice. Boys can't handle your spice."

And I was like:

To Kajsa:

"You are so white. How long have you been here?"

"You need to go to the doctor. Something is wrong with you."

"Start drinking some carrot juice. You need some veetameens."

"You can't leave her!! (Referring to me) She will go after stupid boys without your help!"

Kajsa response was:

So honestly, it was hysterical. I was about dying of laughter.

Today, I wanted to head into Tel Aviv to hang out with Kajsa and Kara for one of their last days here in Israel. But for some reason, the 347 bus (my usual) wasn't running today.

Why?

Oh, just because. Who knows? So I had to jump on the only bus going into Tel Aviv from Raanana, the 501. It was slow. And long. And loud. And ridiculous.

After twoooOOOOOO HOUUUUURSSSS ON THE BUS, I got to the destination... But not the one I wanted. I had no idea how to get to King George Street, where I was supposed to meet Kajsa and Kara, and since it was already 3 and the last buses would stop running around 5, I literally had to turn right back around and get on another bus to go home.

Me to public transportation:

I ended up getting off at an early stop to stroll to the beachside in Herzliya, near my house. I walked for about an hour through tall city buildings down a busy highway. There's nothing like the sudden tapering-off of buildings as you look to the west towards the waterfront. I love how you walk towards a beach, and you can tell you're getting close when the skyline empties. It's one of my favorite forms of anticipation. 

The walk was a liiiittle longer than I thought (I was planning on a half hour, it took an hour), but stepping into the Mediterranean made the fiascos of the entire day worthwhile. Like I've stated--give me some sand, and some saltwater, and the crashing of some waves, and I am home. 

I finished up my walk on the beach (such a cliche, by the way) and walked to the closest bus stop. But, I mean, it was already 5:30 PM on Shabbat, so I was positive no buses were running. I sat at the bench more to mourn my sore feet and ponder whether I should walk the 7 miles home or shell out the $25 for a taxi.

*thinking about spending money*

But then--on the horizon--could it be? A big shiny... BUS??!!

YES. IT WAS MY BUS. COMING TO RESCUE ME.

leaping up from the bench, hallelujah

The bus driver probs thought I was way too excited for a bus ride. But I finally finished the ride back and practically skipped home. I showered and dressed for a Shabbat dinner with some family friends down the street. It was a beautiful and delicious meal, and it was the first time in two weeks I'd had a meal that consisted of vegetables and not just carbs. I'm a terrible adult.

Thank God for the beach, and for friends, and for prepared food, and for life in general. I'm blessed!

Much love,

Aubs

The Real Israel

One of the first questions I'm asked by Israelis upon our first meeting is, "Is Israel what you expected it to be?"

My initial reaction is just to go--

But I know that the inquirers deserve a legitimate answer. So many misconceptions fly around about Israel, and there's undoubtedly a lot of hatred aimed at the inhabitants, so Israelis are eager to find out whether or not the country and land they're so proud of have wiped away any negative assumptions. Here are some of the fallacies that my experiences have disproved.

Belief: Israel is a barren desert.

Reality: Israel is kind of an oasis. Sure, if you go far enough inland, you'll encounter reddish-brown mountains reminiscent of Arizona, or New Mexico, with little-to-no visible wildlife beyond some brush. But the city I live in (Raanana), the city I work in (Herzliya), and Tel Aviv are all overflowing with greenery and critters. Raanana is greener, in fact, than Southern California. There are many flowers, tons of chirping birds, and palm trees. Herzliya is a beach community with ivy climbing up the walls of the buildings. Tel Aviv rests right on the Mediterranean and is filled with little emerald parks and tons of dogs (happy Aubs).

Belief: Everybody in Israel is a religious Jew.

Reality: Israel is a little bit more diverse than that. To be sure, you'll see many more kippahs (or yamakas) on men out and about than you ever would in SoCal or Cambridge, but only about 30% of Israelis are practicing Jews. There are also many Arab Muslims inhabiting Israel (and quite a bit of tension exists between the two groups), and non-practicing Jews. It's interesting; many Jewish Israelis identify not with the Jewish religion, but with the Jewish ethnicity and the Jewish culture. Some of these Jews could not begin to tell you about the history of the Torah, but they are proud of their ancestors and the strength of their people. 

Belief: Israel is dangerous.

Reality: Most of Israel is actually very, very safe. Not just from rockets--which it is!--but from ordinary crime as well. I actually feel much safer walking down a dark street in Raanana than I do in Cambridge. A sense of camaraderie and community pervades the cities and streets. I think that's what happens when it feels like the whole world--or at least, your immediate world--is ganged up against you. You band together. You kind of have to.

Other things I've noticed:

- Almost everybody speaks English--except for the bus drivers, cuz that'd just be way too easy. But seriously, if you speak to five random people on the street, at least four of them would answer you coherently. Of course, I feel like an absolute idiot, considering I can barely speak one language (I've had to spell check, like, 15 different words in this entry alone). I do get this perverted sense of pride when somebody speaks Hebrew to me initially. Like, oooo, they think I'm Israeli, go me! Of course this pride is shattered the second I have to go "errr ummm inglit???" And then they look a little bit exasperated and disgusted and my ego deflates a tiny bit.

- People really like America. Whether my perceptions are slightly skewed because of the superstar quality of me coming from California, or my attendance at one of the top universities in the world, I'm not sure; but it really does seem that people are fond of the USA. Thank God for that, because I would feel very uncomfortable living in a country that had animosity, or even apathy, towards the US. In Egypt, for example, you're better off just telling people you're from Canada. I don't know if I could convincingly tell someone I come from "America's top hat." (Kidding.... A little bit.) But really, if anybody had walked into my bedroom on July 3rd at 11:59, this is what it would have looked like.

WOOOO

- Tel Aviv feels like an American or European city. It isn't "quintessentially Middle Eastern"--honestly, I don't really know what that'd look like, but I feel very comfortable in the city in a way I didn't feel comfortable in Istanbul. 

- Israelis are a very hands-on, confrontational, and at times pushy people. They will demand what they believe they deserve. If you're dozing or blanking out, they will cut you in line. And they refuse to put up with any bullsh*t. For example, when the think tank I work for reserved a conference room, and students from the college were working in the space, they profusely and very stubbornly refused to leave. Let me clarify--an adult researcher for an international think tank on counter-terrorism had to fight with some college students to leave a room that had been reserved. They insisted that it was "their school" and they had the right to sit there.

The blatant disrespect of authority had me like

If anybody even semi-important looking walked into a room I was in at Harvard--even a freaking bathroom--and told me they had it reserved, I'd be like

OMG I'm so sorry, I'll leave right now, would you like some snacks, some orange juice, can I pull out that seat for you?

It's a very different, very authoritative culture. Perhaps when you have multiple nations and millions of people telling you that the land you live on doesn't actually belong to you, or the religion you practice garners enough hatred for millions to actively seek your death,  you start to feel (or at least act) entitled to a few things--a conference room being one.

If you have any more questions about Israel, I'd be happy to answer them! Just leave a comment below, and I'll answer to the best of my abilities!

Much love,

Practically Israeli Aubrey

Life's a Beach

What an adventure, and what a heavenly day! I woke up ready to conquer the twelve mile (roundtrip) bike ride to Herzliya Beach on the Mediterranean Sea. Never mind that I haven't ridden a bike for two years, and the last time I did, I gashed my knee open--I was going to the BEACH.

I screenshotted about ten pics of the directions needed to get to the sand and set out on my way, wobbly and on the verge of toppling.

me

It was a trek through some random construction site that I accidentally wandered into, crowds of annoyed Israelis that did not understand my frantic "excuse me!" as I swerved around strollers and dogs, and a life-altering, tragic injury that will hold me back from ever being mobile again.

How it felt

What it was )':

But honestly, it was cool--I was bikeriding through a little foreign city on the way to the Mediterranean. It felt very Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants

It was just like this, except I was alone and bleeding profusely

And then--just as I reached into my bag to grab my phone and check directions--I SAW IT. I literally gasped out loud.

That little patch of blue in the back

THERE IT WAS. THE BEACH. And in that moment I realized that regardless of which country I was in or what body of water it was, the beach would always in some way be my home. It will always take my breath away while simultaneously filling me with the comfort of familiarity. Sand and saltwater run through my veins. And I mean, the proof of that composition was all over my ankle and shoe... Yikes. Time to get in the water.

But first... a snack.

Doritos: Cool Ranch are the same in any language

I posted up on the shore and read my book/people-watched/enjoyed the sun on my Vitamin-D-deprived skin. Herzliya Beach was a conglomeration of many beaches I've seen before. It had the beautiful cliffed shores of Laguna, the temperate warmth and waveless water of Miami, and the picturesque sailboats of Newport,

Heavenly!

But the stunning shells were unique

If you look under the ripples, you can see the sand is absolutely FILLED with shells!!

Perfect clam shells with round edges covered the entire beach. It was amazing!!! Perfect for a DIY project, which I will be undertaking at some point this summer.

Artsy 

The lifeguard tower was adorable. It reminded me of Long Beach Airport in a funny way!

Nautical!

And just like that, homesickness started to set in the faintest bit. I've been in such a whirlwind of newness and activity that I haven't even had the chance to miss home. But I really do. I miss talking to my mom, going to the zoo with my dad, sleeping next to Sisi and listening to music with Miranda, walking my dogs, and being back in Anaheim. It's hard that I only had two weeks to get my fill of my home this summer and that in all likelihood I won't return until November. That's what growing up is, I suppose. Flying the nest, leaving the old behind in the quest for excitement. But I know in my heart that Southern California will always be home, and I hope that life leads me back. 

My new fave gif

But not for a little while--I've got some adventures to go on.

I rode back home with little incident, not in little part due to the emptiness of the sidewalks. Shabbat, or the Jewish Sabbath, was about to begin, and people were hunkering down in their homes preparing for the day dedicated to rest and reflection. No public transportation runs from Friday night to Saturday night, and most stores are closed as well. Kind of crazy! Once again, an interesting mix of church and state that manifests itself in unexpected ways. 

I will soon be headed to a Shabbat dinner with my host family, and I'm looking forward to experiencing a candlelit dinner--especially since I haven't found my Israeli boyfriend yet to take me out (;

Til next time,

Beach Babe Aubs

First Day on the Job

It's official: I'm going to have the best summer ever. My internship began today, and it was basically everything I'd hoped it would be. Even though I'd woken up at 5 AM (I hate you, jet lag), I was bright-eyed and bushy-tailed on my way to the office. I showed up right around 11 on the stunning IDC Herzliya campus. The office I'm working for--the International Institute for Counter-Terrorism--sits in a breath-taking, all-glass building in the beach-town university.

Such a pretty building, amirite?

Beautiful lawn with vine- and flower-covered bungalows. Herzliya is stunning!

I was shown around the quaint but comfortable office then immediately given a book on counter-terrorism measures to read. My internship director warned me that this was the only copy in the entire office, so I had to be sure not to write in it. Don't worry, I didn't write in it... I just spilled all my coffee on the pages.

My exact expression.

Furtively, I glanced side to side to ascertain whether anyone else had noticed my transgression. Nope, I was in the clear. Then, I flipped through the entire book, desperate to reassure myself that another careless intern had spilled some spaghetti sauce or drool or something--nope. Just me. Ah well. *flips pages*

Around 12:30, all fourteen interns got together to head down to the eating area two minutes away. It was absolutely adorable. Outdoor tables were clustered around glass, greenhouse-like cafes that served sandwiches, pastas, and other delicacies. 

The eating area--kinda reminds me of a sleepaway camp!

Interesting Kosher fact--you cannot eat meat and dairy together ever. It has to do with the forbiddance of mixing the "milk of the mother" and the "meat of the child"--or something like that. AKA no roast beef/provolone sandwiches for me for a while. Joey would basically die.

Nevertheless, I decided to get into the Middle Eastern spirit, and I ordered some hummus and pita bread for lunch.

yuuuuum

After a few more hours on the clock, it was time to take the bus home. A few things: 1) I do not have any data in Israel; I can only get on the internet when I'm around WiFi. Therefore, if I get lost on my way back using public transportation... I'm screwed. 2) All signs for transportation are in Hebrew, which is not only a different language but also uses a completely different alphabet, much like Chinese. 3) I'm living in Raanana, a suburb north of Herzliya, while the rest of the interns are living in Tel Aviv, which is south of our internship. That means it was time for me to navigate the foreign public transportation system completely alone and devoid of technological aid. Sure, I'd screenshotted the directions of certain buses, but that was about it.

So I waited by this random bus stop until finally a bus came. I poked my head in and timidly inquired which bus would take me to Raanana. "Ah, Raanana," the bus driver brusquely muttered, "Yes, yes, *mumble mumble* here." 

I paused for a second, as I had zero directions for this bus, but then shrugged and decided it was all part of the adventure. I climbed on, pushed all of my money in the driver's hand, trusting him to make change, and sat down clutching my belongings.

Here's a picture of me when I realized I was actually definitely going in the right direction.

Makin' my way downtown.

Every street that comes perpendicular to the main road in Raanana (Ahuza Street) is numbered so that drivers and public transporters can tell how close they are to the street they seek. I got off at Street Number 4, which I vaguely remembered from the morning drive with my host mom. Then... I started walkin'. I recognized nothing. I encountered only briskly moving, Hebrew-speaking natives. So.. I just kept walking and crossing streets using my admittedly decent internal sense of direction. Then... I SAW A STREET NAME I RECOGNIZED. HELLO, AKIVA STREET. 

I had to make a split second decision. Right or left? Hmmm.... turning left seemed a lot prettier--more trees, less uphill. Left it is.

After a few minutes, I came upon Tsipman Street--I was on the right track, and I was absolutely stoked about it.

Walkin' fast, faces pass, and I'm homebound.

Turning left would've taken me uphill, and that absolutely was not about to happen. Right it was! And a few minutes later... I WAS ON MY STREET. I'D DONE IT. I'D TREKKED ACROSS ISRAEL TO FIND MY WAY HOME. I wandered. I conquered. I celebrated with an hour-long conversation with my mother. Who says I'm not Jewish? 

KIDDING. Obviously...

I was honestly so impressed with my directional prowess, I couldn't believe it. Now, I'm not only a Hebrew master, I'm also a master of Israeli transportation. And it's only been, like, five days. Imagine what I'll do in three months!

Signed,

Mental Compass Aubs