The Best of Visitors

So... My special visitors have arrived....

MY MOM AND JENI ARE HERE!!!!!! She and Jeni (my mom's friend that actually put me in touch with the Morris family) flew across the Atlantic Ocean to spend my last week in Israel with me. I could not be more excited!!

They arrived yesterday for Shabbat, and I led them through all of the religious rituals. I'm a Jewish genius now.

*flips hair* "it's no big"

Orit immediately warmed herself up to jeni and my mother and wasted no time asking Jeni for some of her candy (classic Orit). We napped for a few hours, then spent half the night chatting and laughing with Esther and Nava. It was a wonderful night.

We woke up early to head into Tel Aviv for the day. I do have to say, it is very different travelling Israel with job-holding, salary-earning adults as opposed to poor college student peers. Like we rented a car and I don't have to deal with public transportation anymore. AT. ALL.

And we booked private tour guides for MONEY.

And we ordered BREAKFAST like for real instead of just COFFEE.

And we are staying in a hotel in a few nights!!! Not a hostel. Not an airport Starbucks. A hotel.

I can barely breathe.

We spent the day walking around the city together, which reminded my mom and Jeni of Downtown LA for many reasons--not least of all the lace.

We then headed over to Old Jaffa for a more "ancient" feeling city. Tel Aviv feels like it could be in any country anywhere in the world (that speaks Hebrew, that is), so I wanted my mom and Jeni to get a feel for the unique personality and beauty of Israel on the first day. And boy, did they!

Look at that blue ocean!

My excitement spilling over!

We looked over the Mediterranean Sea and Tel Aviv, prayed in St. Peter's Church, and explored numerous little art galleries, jewelry shops, and one-of-a-kind designer stores. We definitely got in the Israeli mood.

It's exciting to have two people here whom I love so much and share an Orange County, California background with me. I find that they have similar perspectives and observations to my own, and it's been so enjoyable for me to explain my own experiences to them knowing that they'll understand what I mean. Talking with them about the history of Israel and the cities we've explored also opens my own eyes to the fascinating information I've learned and retained since my arrival. I'm spouting dates and facts like--

Go me, man.

From Jaffa, we drove about an hour and a half (due to traffic) to the city of Caesarea, an old Roman port that has the most fantastic view of the Mediterranean at sunset and unbelievable ruins.

How *wow* is that!?

We had a delicious dinner on the shore, then drove home in utter exhaustion. We are crawling into bed as tired as can be, because we have a packed day tomorrow--maybe my busiest since I've come to Israel!! Couldn't be more thrilled to spend my final week in Israel with two of the most amazing women in the world!

With so much joy,

Aubs (and Jeni and Sabrina!)

The Beach Cures All

Okay, I have sufficiently recovered my peace of mind enough to record the events of yesterday and today. I'm just as sane as I normally am, which is to say, not very.

SO after work yesterday, Kajsa and I took the bus to Tel Aviv to eat some acai bowls and sit on the shore. If I squinted just a little and sort of held my breath and didn't listen to the incomprehensible conversations going on around me, I could pretend I was home in Laguna Hills chilling at Thousand Steps Beach! We'd only planned on staying a few hours, but time slipped away as we chatted and watched the sun set.

We had two interrupters.

First, some crazy dude literally slid on the sand in between me and Kajsa like this--

And Kajsa and I were like--

This random guy was trying to make weird conversation, so I kindly asked if he'd throw away my empty acai bowl for me. His attitude completely darkened, and he started cussing me and Kajsa out, calling us "douchebags" (what?) and telling us to shut up.

So of course I'd just say random words so he wouldn't think I was obeying his order. It was like fighting with a 2-year-old with an excessively colorful vocabulary.

But our next visitor was way more fun. Davit, the middle-aged Israeli man, basically loved me.

Real quotes from Davit:

"You have a lovely skin color. Very dark."

"You just have to make sure you smile when it's dark out, it could be hard to see you."

"Do you play volleyball? I can tell your hands handle balls well."

"Boys are stupid. You need to wait for the right boy. Not an Israeli boy."

"You have a lot of spice. Boys can't handle your spice."

And I was like:

To Kajsa:

"You are so white. How long have you been here?"

"You need to go to the doctor. Something is wrong with you."

"Start drinking some carrot juice. You need some veetameens."

"You can't leave her!! (Referring to me) She will go after stupid boys without your help!"

Kajsa response was:

So honestly, it was hysterical. I was about dying of laughter.

Today, I wanted to head into Tel Aviv to hang out with Kajsa and Kara for one of their last days here in Israel. But for some reason, the 347 bus (my usual) wasn't running today.

Why?

Oh, just because. Who knows? So I had to jump on the only bus going into Tel Aviv from Raanana, the 501. It was slow. And long. And loud. And ridiculous.

After twoooOOOOOO HOUUUUURSSSS ON THE BUS, I got to the destination... But not the one I wanted. I had no idea how to get to King George Street, where I was supposed to meet Kajsa and Kara, and since it was already 3 and the last buses would stop running around 5, I literally had to turn right back around and get on another bus to go home.

Me to public transportation:

I ended up getting off at an early stop to stroll to the beachside in Herzliya, near my house. I walked for about an hour through tall city buildings down a busy highway. There's nothing like the sudden tapering-off of buildings as you look to the west towards the waterfront. I love how you walk towards a beach, and you can tell you're getting close when the skyline empties. It's one of my favorite forms of anticipation. 

The walk was a liiiittle longer than I thought (I was planning on a half hour, it took an hour), but stepping into the Mediterranean made the fiascos of the entire day worthwhile. Like I've stated--give me some sand, and some saltwater, and the crashing of some waves, and I am home. 

I finished up my walk on the beach (such a cliche, by the way) and walked to the closest bus stop. But, I mean, it was already 5:30 PM on Shabbat, so I was positive no buses were running. I sat at the bench more to mourn my sore feet and ponder whether I should walk the 7 miles home or shell out the $25 for a taxi.

*thinking about spending money*

But then--on the horizon--could it be? A big shiny... BUS??!!

YES. IT WAS MY BUS. COMING TO RESCUE ME.

leaping up from the bench, hallelujah

The bus driver probs thought I was way too excited for a bus ride. But I finally finished the ride back and practically skipped home. I showered and dressed for a Shabbat dinner with some family friends down the street. It was a beautiful and delicious meal, and it was the first time in two weeks I'd had a meal that consisted of vegetables and not just carbs. I'm a terrible adult.

Thank God for the beach, and for friends, and for prepared food, and for life in general. I'm blessed!

Much love,

Aubs

Short and Sour

Okay, this post is going to be really short and slightly depressing, so just brace yourselves I guess.

Kajsa and I headed to the Tel Aviv beach with some acai bowls after work, which was beyond lovely, but the night was a bit of a bust. We decided at 9:30 PM to head home from Tel Aviv, about 15 miles or so from Raanana, and I didn't walk into the door until 12:30 AM. Sometimes I'm able to blow off minor setbacks with a shrug and a smile, but tonight, I'm just a little too frustrated, a little too tired, and a little too sad.

I feel fragile, like I did this past winter in Cambridge. It's like I'm a giant Jenga tower, and every small setback like the bus being 40 minutes late, or the bus driver setting the air to 59 degrees in the bus (seriously, dude?), or being locked out pulls one of those tiny little blocks from my precarious structure.

And I'm just homesick, and exhausted, and even though tons of funny and wonderful things happened today, I think that for the sake of my own sanity, I have to cut this blog short, get some rest, and reset my mind and outlook and attitude. I'll fill you in tomorrow on the hilarious antics of Davit, the complimenter, and the random guy who spit at me and Kajsa at the beach. For now... I need to crawl into bed and shut off my consciousness.

And that's all I have to say about that.

Gonna sleep it off,
Aubrye

The Real Israel

One of the first questions I'm asked by Israelis upon our first meeting is, "Is Israel what you expected it to be?"

My initial reaction is just to go--

But I know that the inquirers deserve a legitimate answer. So many misconceptions fly around about Israel, and there's undoubtedly a lot of hatred aimed at the inhabitants, so Israelis are eager to find out whether or not the country and land they're so proud of have wiped away any negative assumptions. Here are some of the fallacies that my experiences have disproved.

Belief: Israel is a barren desert.

Reality: Israel is kind of an oasis. Sure, if you go far enough inland, you'll encounter reddish-brown mountains reminiscent of Arizona, or New Mexico, with little-to-no visible wildlife beyond some brush. But the city I live in (Raanana), the city I work in (Herzliya), and Tel Aviv are all overflowing with greenery and critters. Raanana is greener, in fact, than Southern California. There are many flowers, tons of chirping birds, and palm trees. Herzliya is a beach community with ivy climbing up the walls of the buildings. Tel Aviv rests right on the Mediterranean and is filled with little emerald parks and tons of dogs (happy Aubs).

Belief: Everybody in Israel is a religious Jew.

Reality: Israel is a little bit more diverse than that. To be sure, you'll see many more kippahs (or yamakas) on men out and about than you ever would in SoCal or Cambridge, but only about 30% of Israelis are practicing Jews. There are also many Arab Muslims inhabiting Israel (and quite a bit of tension exists between the two groups), and non-practicing Jews. It's interesting; many Jewish Israelis identify not with the Jewish religion, but with the Jewish ethnicity and the Jewish culture. Some of these Jews could not begin to tell you about the history of the Torah, but they are proud of their ancestors and the strength of their people. 

Belief: Israel is dangerous.

Reality: Most of Israel is actually very, very safe. Not just from rockets--which it is!--but from ordinary crime as well. I actually feel much safer walking down a dark street in Raanana than I do in Cambridge. A sense of camaraderie and community pervades the cities and streets. I think that's what happens when it feels like the whole world--or at least, your immediate world--is ganged up against you. You band together. You kind of have to.

Other things I've noticed:

- Almost everybody speaks English--except for the bus drivers, cuz that'd just be way too easy. But seriously, if you speak to five random people on the street, at least four of them would answer you coherently. Of course, I feel like an absolute idiot, considering I can barely speak one language (I've had to spell check, like, 15 different words in this entry alone). I do get this perverted sense of pride when somebody speaks Hebrew to me initially. Like, oooo, they think I'm Israeli, go me! Of course this pride is shattered the second I have to go "errr ummm inglit???" And then they look a little bit exasperated and disgusted and my ego deflates a tiny bit.

- People really like America. Whether my perceptions are slightly skewed because of the superstar quality of me coming from California, or my attendance at one of the top universities in the world, I'm not sure; but it really does seem that people are fond of the USA. Thank God for that, because I would feel very uncomfortable living in a country that had animosity, or even apathy, towards the US. In Egypt, for example, you're better off just telling people you're from Canada. I don't know if I could convincingly tell someone I come from "America's top hat." (Kidding.... A little bit.) But really, if anybody had walked into my bedroom on July 3rd at 11:59, this is what it would have looked like.

WOOOO

- Tel Aviv feels like an American or European city. It isn't "quintessentially Middle Eastern"--honestly, I don't really know what that'd look like, but I feel very comfortable in the city in a way I didn't feel comfortable in Istanbul. 

- Israelis are a very hands-on, confrontational, and at times pushy people. They will demand what they believe they deserve. If you're dozing or blanking out, they will cut you in line. And they refuse to put up with any bullsh*t. For example, when the think tank I work for reserved a conference room, and students from the college were working in the space, they profusely and very stubbornly refused to leave. Let me clarify--an adult researcher for an international think tank on counter-terrorism had to fight with some college students to leave a room that had been reserved. They insisted that it was "their school" and they had the right to sit there.

The blatant disrespect of authority had me like

If anybody even semi-important looking walked into a room I was in at Harvard--even a freaking bathroom--and told me they had it reserved, I'd be like

OMG I'm so sorry, I'll leave right now, would you like some snacks, some orange juice, can I pull out that seat for you?

It's a very different, very authoritative culture. Perhaps when you have multiple nations and millions of people telling you that the land you live on doesn't actually belong to you, or the religion you practice garners enough hatred for millions to actively seek your death,  you start to feel (or at least act) entitled to a few things--a conference room being one.

If you have any more questions about Israel, I'd be happy to answer them! Just leave a comment below, and I'll answer to the best of my abilities!

Much love,

Practically Israeli Aubrey

Somewhere Beyond the Sea

The title might be slightly misleading, since I don't have any lover beyond the sea standing on golden sand--except, maybe, America, who probably misses me bunches as she prepares for the Fourth, which is my second favorite holiday behind Thanksgiving. ANYWAYS, this song just felt like the soundtrack to my day, as I explored the seaside of Tel Aviv and waded in the Mediterranean.

It started with a stroll through the Tel Aviv "shuk," or the flea market.

It was a much quieter, calmer version of the Turkish Grand Bazaar and actually reminded me a lot of Downtown LA. They had some pretty awesome shops--

But I didn't actually buy anything. It was enough to just enjoy the sights and sounds--and the numerous rude people who stopped in the crowded walkway to check a text or just take a rest. I basically sprint when I walk, and these obstructions had me like

 But finally, I got to the beach and was able to relax. Cue Bobby Darin and Kevin Spacey!

So stunning.

The casual siren on the beach in case we get bombed

DOGS ON THE BEACH, IT IS A DREAM COME TRUE.

I continued to walk on the shore towards Old Jaffa, which is apparently the oldest seaport in the world and one of the oldest Christian settlements in the world as well. I walked along the shore to that beautiful tannish city you can see in the background--

PSA: wear shoes with a grip--I slipped way too many times on these bricks!

Jaffa is unbelievably stunning. It is built with this smooth tan brick and has numerous gardens and sculptures scattered throughout the small city. It looks over the Mediterranean and Tel Aviv with stunning views.

Tel Aviv from the Old City of Jaffa

One of the oldest Christian churches in Israel and possibly the world, St. Peter's church is unique, because unlike most churches, which are built towards the east, St. Peter's is built towards the west overlooking the Mediterranean towards Rome, where Peter is considered the first pope.

St. Peter's Church

A panorama of the City Square

Before Israelites inhabited Jaffa, it was ruled by the Canaanites, so remnants of old mythology remain. One of these old remnants is the Zodiac Fountain, which features the twelve zodiac signs. Apparently, if you make a wish, it will come true immediately--so of course, I had to make a wish!

Another view of the water and city!

 The famous Clocktower Square in Jaffa

I spent about an hour on the beach and in the water relaxing after my hard day of sightseeing. As I stood on a sidewalk corner, waiting for the green light, I heard a hearty--and abysmally accented--"Shalom!" I looked over to see a nice looking, very American guy so I smiled and responded. We got to chatting, and it turned out he was just finishing up his Birthright trip. Many college-aged American Jews will come to Israel for an all-expenses paid trip to see the state of their ancestors. He assumed I was one of these vacationers as well, and was shocked--and pretty impressed--to find out I wasn't Jewish. (lol). Anyways, I told him what I was doing and where I was going to school, and he literally started rattling off names of people he knows that go to Harvard--and I knew so many of them! The networking quality of my university will never cease to amaze me. Literally, I'm halfway across the world, and randomly I meet someone who can list some of my closest friends at school. UNBELIEVABLE.

I headed back home and had to transfer buses a short ways from my final destination. I sat for about ten minutes, waiting for the 29 bus to pick me up. I watched the bus come.... And I watched it drive right past me.

Yeah, no, it's totally fine, I'll just walk.

I schlepped back to the house and collapsed into bed. We had a lovely dinner to start off our Shabbat, and I plan on going to sleep right.. about.. now. It's been a wonderful, but exhausting day, and I'm ready to get some rest!!

Toodles,

No More Sailin' Aubs

Short and Sweet

Hi everybody!

This will be a quick update since it's 2 AM here in Israel and I am about to PASS OUT. But I didn't want to leave you hanging for more than two days, so here goes!

• I spent most of yesterday (Wednesday) recuperating from a vacation of little sleep, minimal exercise, and way too much unhealthy food! 

Not quite conducive to a healthy diet 

Including baklava, which actually originates from Turkey and not Greece, to my surprise.

Pistachio baklava, om nom nom

It was a great day though to catch up with my host family and to readjust to my home.

Orit wearing a costume my mom sent that I used to wear as a little girl! How adorable!?

• I made the very tough decision to go back to Boston early and in time for the beginning of Harvard's fall semester instead of hanging in Israel for two extra weeks in order to attend the International Counter-Terrorism Conference. It was difficult to decide, but my priority at this point in time is graduating from Harvard with the highest GPA possible, and the stress alone that I'd accumulate those first two missed weeks would hinder that goal. So, I'll be back in America August 28th! Still plentyyyy of time to explore (:

• Tonight was "White Night," which is an annual festival in Tel Aviv to kick off summer. In Hebrew, it's Laiva Lavan, which is equivalent to "all-nighter" in English. There are tons of outdoor concerts, fun activities, and a bunch of cultural events. Now, if you know me superficially, you'll know I absolutely love to party. You will see me at final clubs (or frats) at least 4 nights a week, saying hi to everybody in the room and dancing to my fave songs. If you know me even a little better than superficially--you'll know I actually HATE HATE HATE partying!!! I went out a lot this past year to make friends, to push myself out of my comfort zone, and to prove to myself that I could. But honestly, I hate it. The music, the crowds, the smell of smoke and beer--I literally shudder as I think of it. But I KNEW I needed to go out tonight, to get the experience. So I met up with the other interns at an American bar called Mike's Place for some good ol' quality coworker time. (The other interns, I should say, are FABULOUS--hilarious, intelligent, knowledgeable, and so fun.) I was so glad to spend time with them--but it was getting late (aka 11 o' clock), there was a person at the bar smoking, and I really, really, really wanted to sleep. So after a few hours of hanging out, I headed back home. And thank God I did: the bus on the way back passed a HUGE crowd of teenagers mobbing around a loud concert in a packed park. Basically, my worst nightmare. 

Thank you thank you thank you for letting me be on this bus

• Seriously, though, I'm beginning to really understand my own limits as a young adult--I push my limits of comfort and solitariness while respecting my need to duck out a little early every once in a while. I don't think that is a situation unique to being abroad; I think it's more a matter of growing up and understanding what you as an individual can actually handle. But maybe I'm just getting philosophical in my exhaustion. 

It's already my weekend, so I have a few fun things planned that I'll be sure to write about over the next few days! But now... it's time for sleep

Peace and Love,

Aubs

Exploring Tel Aviv

After waking up to my first full day in Israel, I grabbed an avocado, an apple, and some Nutella for breakfast and brought my book outside to read in a quaint, pretty gazebo--

It's out of a fairy-tale!

Also known in Aubrey World as heaven. 

In the afternoon, Esther (my host mother), her daughter, Nava, and I went into the city of Tel Aviv for a cultural adventure. Also known in Aubrey World as a freaking dream come true. We had some delicious lunch, and I even learned my first Hebrew word--"toda" or "please." Esther assured me I pronounced it "beautifully," so basically, I speak Hebrew now.

Tried to figure out how to put an animated yamaka on her head, but I don't have nearly enough technological prowess.

My impressions of Tel Aviv: it definitely is a "city" by any standard, but it felt really small. Geographically, it spans a pretty sizeable area in Los Angeles fashion, and the buildings absolutely soar, but there just weren't that many people. I guess I'm kind of a traffic snob coming from the land of the 405, but it truly just felt like driving through a slightly crowded suburb. A lot of the buildings are painted concrete in colors of cream and light yellow, but a few glass skyscrapers are starting to sprout. Tel Aviv is this incredible juxtaposition of antiquated apartment complexes with fading, chipped facades and modern businesses and government buildings that span the geometrical gamut.

The view from lunch

We picked up Ariella and went to explore the cutest little neighborhood in Tel Aviv called Neve Tzedek. The Mediterranean influences were evident in the pastel colors and the chill, outdoorsy vibe of the streets and buildings. But you could definitely sense the Middle Eastern-ness in the style of the homes and the patches of rich, caramel-colored soil.

Welcoming store fronts

I love this picture--the clothes hanging out on the line and the vines snaking across the balcony

We went inside a few cute boutiques with jewelry and light, flowing, colorful clothing. Esther told me that there are absolutely no department stores in Israel. No Nordstrom's, no T.J. Maxx, not even a Target.

I know, Kristen Wiig, I know.

A lot of shopping is done at these small, non-chain businesses, which is actually kind of cool! The stores were out of my price range (I like to spend max ten bucks on any article of clothing), but the prices were nothing like what you would see in an independent store back home. All of the dresses and jewelry were very affordable and extremely chic. 

So many colors!!

Two-story boutique

Almost all of the doorways in Israel have little rectangular boxes on them, like this:

These boxes contain scrolls with Old Testament verses on them, and as a Jewish person enters a room or building, he or she is supposed to kiss his or her fingers and touch the scroll. This is actually given as a command in the Torah! It's so fascinating, because in America, we pride ourselves on the separation of church and state. We love that our own religion and the religion of our neighbors can be different, and we will (or at least, should) not experience any sort of difference or discomfort in daily public life. However, one of Israelis' favorite qualities about their nation is the intertwining of Judaism and the government. Even though 80% of residents are not religious, the Jewish faith pervades every storefront, every street, and every doorway.

My first day on the job is tomorrow--so exciting and nerve-wracking! Wish me luck

Signed,

(practically a) Tel-Aviv native Aubs