Two Normal (But Still Pretty Awesome) Days

Sometimes I feel weird posting about my normal workdays, but the ordinary days I spend here in Israel are still pretty extraordinary to me, and I still want to have documentation of all the moments I spend here. So, if you're only lookin' for some awesome wanderlust-y pics or me in a new travel destination, this post won't quite be it. But I promise to make you laugh once or twice.

Yesterday (Monday) was a productive but mentally exhausting day. Now that I'm beginning the attempt of putting my thoughts about terrorists and attacks and a millenia-old conflict onto paper, my mind basically just goes to mush. It's difficult for two reasons: first of all, I'm sorting through like ten different documents of information from about seventy different sources, which is just, like brain-boggling. Then, I'll spend a half hour painfully eking out a sentence or two--before seeing another one of my tiny bullet points that completely counteracts my progress.

When you realize that the PA, not the PLO, is the government formed in 1993

Writing a paper like this is also difficult, because I'm trying to disprove world-renowned politicians, career terrorists, award-winning journalists, etc. etc. They're all fighting and using big words and making policy changes and I just roll in like

DONKAY.

But it's all about doing the little bit that I can and contributing my eensy bit of knowledge to the vastly important subject. Of course, by the time I'm done with this paper, I'll probs be knocking on the White House door like, "um excuse me, I really think you should read this, it could help you lots, you're welcome."

*flips hair*

I also (very unsurprisingly) have befriended a cat at work and feed it at lunch with all the other interns' leftovers that I beg off of them.

Me

Other interns

I mean, yes, I'm highly allergic to cats, and yes I sneeze and rub my eyes for the rest of the day, but it's WORTH IT. All of the interns also know me so well by now; they basically understand my life goals and needs after a few weeks. *actual quote* "Aubrey, you just need to find a guy that loves cats and animals as much as you do, and then you need to marry him.... But that might be hard to do."

That's basically the Aubrey dating mantra in two sentences.

I also presented a briefing on the Middle East yesterday called "The Middle East ABC's." I was quite proud, cuz it was very clever. Feel feed to read/skip it:

ABC’s of June 29, 2015

Attacks and AccusationsOn Friday, June 26^th, jihadist attacks occurred in France, Tunisia, and Kuwait. The French attack took place in an American-owned chemical plant; the Tunisian attack was on a beach; and in Kuwait, a Shiite mosque was bombed. The latter two attacks were ISIS-affiliated. Such attacks emphasize the vulnerability of civilians in the ongoing war on terror.
 The International Criminal Court is entering preliminary investigations of war crimes committed by both Israel and Palestine in last year’s war against Hamas. Palestinian Authority foreign minister Riyad al-Maliki submitted a dossier to the lead prosecutor outlining alleged crimes committed on Palestinian soil. The ICC will most likely dismiss these files as politically motivated, but the independent investigations by the ICC could lead to a potential case against both countries.
  Border Towns and Bringing Them BackISIS attacked the Turkish town of Kobane on Thursday, slaughtering over 200 men, women, and children. The Kurds, Assad-loyalists, had regained control of Kobane by Saturday. The attack is said to be in response to the Kurdish victory over the supply routes of Tal Abyad to ISIS capital Raqqa, Syria.
 Obama recently made a speech that families who attempt to negotiate ransoms with terrorist groups holding American hostages will not be prosecuted. This change in policy is meant to give families options and reduce feelings of helplessness and inaction. However, this new allowance of negotiation could not only weaken America’s hard stance against terrorist groups but could also encourage kidnapping as a method for groups.
 Compromise and Code RedAmerican Secretary of State John Kerry and Iranian Foreign Minister Mohammad Javad Zarif are holding negotiations in Vienna regarding the potential attainment of nuclear power by Iran and current US and UN sanctions against the country. Kerry says he and the foreign minister are “hopeful” about a deal in the next few weeks. While the pre-set deadline for agreement is supposed to be June 30^th, it is more likely that negotiations will last until at least July 3^rd.
 Yesterday, code red sirens went off in southern Israel as a rocket flew from Gaza. Though the rocket harmlessly landed in the Gaza Strip, it is the fourth rocket to violate the ceasefire in the last few weeks. The rockets have been shot not by Hamas but by Salafists hoping to incite a civil war with Hamas. 

It was a great presentation, if I do say so myself, and we had an interesting conversation with one of the Israeli senior researchers afterwards. While it was an educational discussion to be sure, but it definitely made me aware of how bias can affect one's perceptions and why one should be careful to keep others' experiences and points of view at the forefront when considering issues. And for the fear of overstepping my boundaries in this topic,

I went home early because one can only take so much terrorism and hatred before she says,

And I even decided to have ice cream and popcorn for dinner, because

... Then I went to see the new Pixar movie "Inside Out," so maybe I'm not really an adult quite yet (but it was an amazing movie, I highly recommend). Interesting fact: seats in Israeli movie theatres are assigned, and you are required to sit in your assigned seat. People will make you move ten to fifteen minutes into the movie if you're in their spot!

Today was more of the same--more terrorism, more productivity, more eating. Our supervisor did have to yell at some college students that refused to leave the conference room we were working in. The entire conversation was in Hebrew and there was so much sass emanating from the conversants, and the other interns and I were just sitting there like,

doo doo doo, we're just working, can't hear anything, la la la

Came home for the last real 'normal' day with my host family. Their eleven-year-old son, whom I play catch with and get ice cream with, is leaving for a three-week camp tomorrow, and Ariella, one of the daughters closest to me in age whom I really love and discuss books/eat sushi/learn Hebrew from, leaves on Thursday for two months. Their summer is actually just beginning in the next few days; the colleges don't begin their summer breaks until August 9th. I'd die--so much beach time lost!

Tomorrow is my last day before the weekend

So ya know it's gonna be a good day!

If you've made it this far through such a normal post, I love you. Send me a message or something with the words "King George" (the name of my cat friend) and I'll give you extra currency in the Aubrey Bank of Love. 

TGIT,

AubStod

The Family and The Paper

We had a beautiful Shabbat yesterday celebrating the 25th anniversary of my host parents. Their friends and family gathered at their home to commemorate the years they've shared together. It was a surprise that included beautiful pictures and delicious food. However, the kids realized yesterday morning that they'd forgotten to cut ribbon and punch holes for the hanging signs--which indeed constitutes work, forbidden on Shabbat. Oh no, what would they do???

DUN DUN DUN DUNNNN!!!

HEATHEN AUBREY TO THE RESCUE!! I broke all the rules and felt like such a rebel. Aubs saved the day, wahoo!! Only kidding a little bit.

Have I mentioned yet how lucky I am to have my host family? Delicious, healthy, hot dinners. Insight into the Jewish religion and the Israeli lifestyle. Kind, warm, generous people that have entered my heart and will be there for life.Have I mentioned yet how lucky I am to have my host family? Delicious, healthy, hot dinners. Insight into the Jewish religion and the Israeli lifestyle. Kind, warm, generous people that have entered my heart and will be there for life.

Ariella, one of the daughters closest to me in age, leaves for volunteering in Ethiopia on Thursday. I literally have tears in my eyes typing this because I have to say goodbye to her and I won't see her again before I leave. How the heck am I going to say bye to this amazing family that's taken me into their hearts and home? 

Honestly, I can't even think about it or I'll cry. I have exactly two months left until my flight leaves... WOW.

I spent today working. I'm really starting to get into my project! I even wrote the first page of my report today. It took me hours, but hey, it's done--at least, until I turn in my draft and my advisor says "good... now do it all over."

*five hours at work later*

Between the amazing work I get to do and the unbelievably incredible family I get to live with, this summer is flying by. I know this is a super short post, but I just wanted to update you all! I'm happy and excited and so, so lucky (:

Immersed in the Israeli Lifestyle,

AubStod

We All Went Down to the "Ramat Gan" Zoo (And They All Asked For You)

I got to go to my absolute FAVORITE place in the entire world today--THE ZOO! I woke up to take what was supposed to be an hour long bus ride to the Tel Aviv suburb--plot twist, it was two. And there was a creepy guy and a situation that made me uncomfortable... Basically, I was ready to just run away.

nopenopenopenope

But it was ALL WORTH it the second I stepped off the bus. I was at the zoo!!!

At this particular zoo, they drive you through a safari park to get to the actual zoo. Let me say that again--the safari is not the main attraction. The safari is just the driveway!!

Zebras!

A scimitar, or an oryx

Submerged hippos!

I was in absolute heaven. I walked around and saw all my favorite animals. Here are a few cute pics you can scroll through quickly if you're bored!

Not even part of the zoo--three baby chicks! cheep cheep!

My loves. Asian elephants

I love them!

Little baby!!!

He even looked up for the picture. I love this camel

Chompin at the bamboo

Another looker!!

Rudolph???

Little guy hanging off the fence. I imagine him saying, "help me, I'm poor."

There was an infant resting with its momma. So adorable!!! I couldn't believe how cute it was. It loved its mommy

The zoo was just like the rest of Israel--super open with suggestive rules. I was actually hanging out near the meerkat (meercat? I don't know) cage thinking about how open the enclosure was. Then--the zookeeper came over to feed the animals. Look how she got in.

What.

WHAT.

She literally lifted up the net and crawled in!! UnREAL. If I had the slightest bit less self control, I would have been inside of these enclosures like 

Love!

On the way out of the zoo, we passed through the lion enclosure and also went by some rhinos.

RAWR

What a guy

So close to the car!

I had the same safari driver into and out of the zoo, so of course I had to take a pic with him. He was very excited.

SUCH A STAR

I got home, then went to the synagogue with my family for the first time. It was a really cool experience. Very joyful, lots of singing and clapping. People were kind of irreverent--guys were sleeping, gals were chatting. It added a lot to the community feel of the service. Fun fact: married women are required to wear head coverings of some sort in the temple--unless they shave their heads and wear a wig. All men, on the other hand, cover their heads with yamakas (also called kippa). 

We returned after the half hour service for a beautiful outdoor dinner.

Stunning. And there's Orit!

Basically, if you were wondering if I'm living in paradise... I am (: 

Tomorrow, we are celebrating my host parents' 25th anniversary--yay!

Happy Friday, everyone!

Love,

Aubs

Short and Sweet

Hi everybody!

This will be a quick update since it's 2 AM here in Israel and I am about to PASS OUT. But I didn't want to leave you hanging for more than two days, so here goes!

• I spent most of yesterday (Wednesday) recuperating from a vacation of little sleep, minimal exercise, and way too much unhealthy food! 

Not quite conducive to a healthy diet 

Including baklava, which actually originates from Turkey and not Greece, to my surprise.

Pistachio baklava, om nom nom

It was a great day though to catch up with my host family and to readjust to my home.

Orit wearing a costume my mom sent that I used to wear as a little girl! How adorable!?

• I made the very tough decision to go back to Boston early and in time for the beginning of Harvard's fall semester instead of hanging in Israel for two extra weeks in order to attend the International Counter-Terrorism Conference. It was difficult to decide, but my priority at this point in time is graduating from Harvard with the highest GPA possible, and the stress alone that I'd accumulate those first two missed weeks would hinder that goal. So, I'll be back in America August 28th! Still plentyyyy of time to explore (:

• Tonight was "White Night," which is an annual festival in Tel Aviv to kick off summer. In Hebrew, it's Laiva Lavan, which is equivalent to "all-nighter" in English. There are tons of outdoor concerts, fun activities, and a bunch of cultural events. Now, if you know me superficially, you'll know I absolutely love to party. You will see me at final clubs (or frats) at least 4 nights a week, saying hi to everybody in the room and dancing to my fave songs. If you know me even a little better than superficially--you'll know I actually HATE HATE HATE partying!!! I went out a lot this past year to make friends, to push myself out of my comfort zone, and to prove to myself that I could. But honestly, I hate it. The music, the crowds, the smell of smoke and beer--I literally shudder as I think of it. But I KNEW I needed to go out tonight, to get the experience. So I met up with the other interns at an American bar called Mike's Place for some good ol' quality coworker time. (The other interns, I should say, are FABULOUS--hilarious, intelligent, knowledgeable, and so fun.) I was so glad to spend time with them--but it was getting late (aka 11 o' clock), there was a person at the bar smoking, and I really, really, really wanted to sleep. So after a few hours of hanging out, I headed back home. And thank God I did: the bus on the way back passed a HUGE crowd of teenagers mobbing around a loud concert in a packed park. Basically, my worst nightmare. 

Thank you thank you thank you for letting me be on this bus

• Seriously, though, I'm beginning to really understand my own limits as a young adult--I push my limits of comfort and solitariness while respecting my need to duck out a little early every once in a while. I don't think that is a situation unique to being abroad; I think it's more a matter of growing up and understanding what you as an individual can actually handle. But maybe I'm just getting philosophical in my exhaustion. 

It's already my weekend, so I have a few fun things planned that I'll be sure to write about over the next few days! But now... it's time for sleep

Peace and Love,

Aubs

Strays, Sultans, and Scarves on My Head: Days 3 and 4

I resumed my journey through Istanbul Sunday morning at 6 AM. We woke up at the break of dawn in order to make it to the Hagia Sophia Mosque right at opening. My best friend from back home, who's travelled through Istanbul, told me that nothing in the world compares to standing under the golden domes before the loud rush of tourists. And boy, was she right.

But first--I had to make a friend.

HEY THERE, BUD.

Hundreds of stray cats and dogs roam the streets of Istanbul. They're often very friendly and well-fed, as bowls of dry pet food and of water line the corners of the streets. It's so cute--it's like the city of Istanbul has its own pets (: But back to the mosque:

WOAH.

All alone... Humbling experience

Beautiful, right? The Hagia Sophia used to be a church in the Byzantine time but was converted into a mosque in the Ottoman period. I enjoyed sitting on the marble steps soaking in the history and the two religions that have graced these halls.

Next up--the Basilica Cistern. This underground water source provided the fresh water for dozens of wells around the city. It was a cavern right out of Indiana Jones, and it was probably my favorite place in Istanbul!

Catfish swimming around the columns!

Me and the columns! Woo!

Medusa statue on which a column rested. The Medusa head was purposely turned sideways as a symbol of Christianity's victory and quashing of the pagan Roman religion. Cool!

After the Cistern was a trip to a Turkish bath. No pictures of that, since it was a spa, but wow--it was like being transported back in time! My two friends are I were the only non-Turks in the bath, and there were only, like, three other girls under the age of 50 in the bath. It was so relaxing and so exotic. I adored the soothing massages and the steaming water to loosen my tense muscles. Highly recommend this experience to all! There was also something beautiful about this calm and quiet gathering of women. Most women walk around Turkey covered at least in headscarves and often with hijabs. It must be so freeing to release one's body from the folds of fabric in the warm, affectionate, and comfortable atmosphere of the bath. 

We made our way back to our hostel using public transportation--boy, what an experience. I stood on a crowded subway and felt people pressing in on all sides of me. Then--I kid you not--I felt somebody CUPPING my BUTT. 

Oh HELLLLLLL NO! 

I turned around in shock and saw this pathetic middle-aged man hastily pulling his hand away. I smacked him and said "Don't you DARE," then gave him my most withering look of disgust. He tried to look innocent, but he probably wasn't used to women calling him out--they don't have much of that firey Creole spice in Turkey. And the worst part? His 7 year old daughter was hanging onto his waist the whole time!!! I was revolted. How can a father of a young daughter grope a teenage woman in front of her?!!! As you might guess--not my most favorite of male-female interactions I've encountered thus far. But I think I taught this guy not to mess.

Anyways, that night, my friends and I explored the suburbs of our hostel with a few Scottish girls we met. We find a nice pizza place that took FOREVER in getting our food. We had terrible service and were barely paid attention to. Probably because the waiter's salary don't depend even the slightest on tips. So there's one benefit to the American custom--waiters and waitresses have smiles on their faces!

We went to sleep, then woke up the next morning after some sleeping in. We decided to explore some of the lesser known mosques away from the touristy parts of the city, and we found some absolute gems, my favorite being the Rustem Pasha Mosque.

Stunning

The walls are blue and white, meant to represent the reach of the heavens. The carpets were red to represent the earth. I felt close to the same peace and calm in this church that I'd experienced in Christ's jail. I really did love this mosque! 

We then visited Suleymayine Mosque, which is said to rival the Blue Mosque.

I loved the grandeur of this mosque. It was heavenly. My friend and I, though, both felt a similar severe disillusionment when we saw the grand emptiness of the main mosque as the men prayed--and a woman in a back cell wearing full hijab praying even further from the main altar than the tourists were. It left our stomachs in knots for reasons we later articulated. If nothing else, this culture of a combined religion and state inspired incredible conversations about culture, religion, sexism, human rights, and God with the other girls I was with.

From the mosques, we visited the best silversmith in the world as well as a man whose family has melted gold into jewelry for the last few centuries.

Standing in front of the silversmith shop

What a guy!

Melting the gold!

From these two shops, we headed back to the hostel to change into some nice slothes and walk to the Harvard Networking Night in Istanbul. The view was stunning--

artsyyyy

--and the drinks were flowing. At least, until the Istanbul Club president left--then the bills came out to all of the recent graduates and alumni. LOL. Classic Harvard, I've gotta say. One of the incredible alumni, whom my friend and I had been talking to for about a half hour, covered our frappuccinos, so we were pretty stoked. We stopped at a beautiful chocolate place where we continued to discuss our opinions and beliefs. By the time we returned to our hostel, it was about 11 PM. We headed to the airport shuttle, which dropped us off at our airport around 1 in the morning. Since we had to check in for our flight around 4... We decided to sleep in the airport!! Felt just like the movie The Terminal.

Hehehe. 

We made it to a Starbucks on the top floor and flopped out on the couches. Our dear friend Ahmed watched out for us as he cleaned the Starbucks area. We slept for about 2 hours then sat there in slightly delusional exhaustion. We made it onto our plane and crashed for the hours it took to get back to Israel. After a few hours, I arrived back at my home. It was so exciting to walk up the steps and open the door. I started gushing right away to my host mother, who said the whole family had missed me--probably not as much as I missed them!! And when I finally walked into my room--I started crying!!! It was bittersweet, I think. Slightly bitter, because all I wanted to do was speak with my mom and dad. But incredibly sweet, because I felt like I was home. After three weeks here, this house on Nordau Street has become my home. How lucky am I?!

If you can believe it--my four day trip cost me less than $200 including my hostel and souvenirs. The flight was $167. It's amazing how cheap this vacation was! I plan on spending the next day and a half catching up on sleep--and on the show The Americans! I love you all!

Happy to be Home,

Aubrey Noelle